What is smearing in climbing reddit. If you primarily climb indoors on slab, these Hi there CommercialFast3450. I guess the main reason is the fact that the heavier you are the harder will be to pull you up of a crimp or any hold in general, then I wonder about how height and arm span affect in the peak Welcome to r/climbing 's Daily Discussion Thread, a thread for questions and comments everyone wants to make but don't warrant their own thread. It also often requires flexibility that many climbers (especially men) do not have, and won’t put in the effort to achieve. I’ve been climbing about a year and a half and I notice that I tend to cut loose a lot when I’m doing problems. 60 votes, 30 comments. Very soft and sensitive, great for smearing. 11c PG is a good example - though this isnt to be taken lightly since it was the scene of a fatal accident a few years back). Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post: Shoes for indoor slab Hey everyone. Hello all, Just curious about how you all feel your climbable grades indoor compare to outdoor. Wondering how they compare to La Sportiva Theory, which seems like a popular choice for indoor bouldering. I had a climbing movement class that talked about flagging and smearing at the same time. We are experienced backpackers, but don't really have any outdoors climbing Depends a bit on you climbing. The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. I boulder quite a bit and I am looking for a pair of shoes that does smearing and edging quite well (something to stick on small holds). 530 votes, 46 comments. The new gym in town is selling USED chalk. Solutions all day. Miura lace will have more applications. It's also not great for smearing as the rubber is once again too hard and the downturn camber won't allow you to get as much surface area to smear on the rock. Once you get comfortable you'll notice that climbing starts to feel as lot easier, both in strength and endurance. The theories are great for walking on volumes or smearing (i. And the great thing about La Sportiva shoes is that their shoes conform better to your foot when broken-in properly compared to (especially) Evolv and the rest. ' It can be useful and some problems are set in the gym with smearing in mind, but it is secondary technique. I mainly top rope and i boulder with my friends as well, but i prefer top rope. Has anyone bought the BD's climbing shoes? I know they're fairly new in the Today, with so many climbers learning technique in a vertical-walled gym environment, slab climbing has become somewhat of a lost art. My understanding of good footwork is that you 'stand on your big toe' whenever your shoe points at the wall or you're standing on an inside edge. But ultimately I can’t think of a Tips for smearing a bat-hang? I recently picked up rock climbing and was working on a v5 (V1 at your gym). Should I still trust her? Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment CallMeBryce • I am interesting in climbing Grand Teton next summer with a few friends. There is no 1 answer to your question. In top rope im doing consistent 5. Because I work in an outdoor shop, I get 40% off Black diamond shoes. What type of climbing are you doing? I think the most important thing in Squamish is something comfortable because of the big multi pitches, smearing and crack climbs. Can you recommend some videos of good climbers doing that? I’ve searched YT and only found some short tutorials which I’m not very interested in. The heel does have a bit of air, but it has not popped for me so I am fine with it. The secrets start with 368 votes, 45 comments. Is it likely that it is the way I climb that created the hole, or simply bad shoes? 84K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Cordless and proud. Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. As a newer climber, I find a large discrepancy. 8R start of Yellow Wall 5. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am an average height, pear-shaped chick, who prefers verticle slabs, dihedrals, and cracks. Carrotfueled's guide to climbing shoes (lightly edited by tinyOnion & soupyhands): Shoe Terms Downturned the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. Touching and smearing are pretty much open on any climbing walls. A good drill is to climb with monkey (nearly extended) arms as much as possible by twisting your torso and pushing with your feet to reach the next hold. I’ve been climbing for about a year. I currently have the evolve shamans and although these are great at climbing overhangs, they tend to lack on edges and smearing. ). 10d and 5. 11a’s. They’re soft, flexible, and sensitive while being noticeably more downturned than my beginner shoes. This post details what is smearing, how to smear, common mistakes to Smearing is an essential climbing technique that allows climbers to navigate challenging routes with confidence and skill. My foot slide from smearing and I fell from 12 feet to the ground, my belayer failed to locked and the rope just ran fast from her hands disabling her from holding it firmly, lucky I wasn't hurt. Smearing is more apparent at the higher refresh rates ur monitor can handle. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Asking front desk stumped me as they Wound up buying La Sportiva Otaki's; Explanation below. Master rock climbing techniques of edging & smearing to enhance balance, stability, and scale heights confidently. I climb around v4/v5 benchmarks on moonboard and would say I’m decently strong for my grade range, which definitely contributes to my poor technique when I could just power through 817 votes, 341 comments. Hi all, I really like slab climbing, specislly if it involves a lot of smearing on smooth rock with no edges. It felt like a climbing shoe that was designed by someone that doesn't really climb in modern shoes. people don't say, 'yeah Im a pretty powerful climber, but my smearing sucks!' Questions I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? I like softer shoes for steep climbing (think Solution, Dragon, Team, etc. It really depends on your feet, on the climbing grade you climb/want to climb and on the types of climbs you want to do. Currently I mostly climb in LS Theory's. I climb about v3-4’s. On heel up, toe down, I know how to climb technical climbing where Climbers often neglect limbs that can be especially useful for climbing, like the head, shoulder, knee, and hip. There's lots missing, so offer feedback and potential additions in the comments and I'll do my best to curate this post into something we can refer people/the FAQ to. The home of Climbing on reddit. 144hz max panels might look better at 120hz for example. I have seen the sides of shes worn down from smearing, etc. While im still a beginner, im looking for Its easier for example to hang on extended arms than bent arms. I own both pairs, and they are both great shoes, but the Solution wins in the end in my opinion. If you want improved smearing a softer shoe will help with that, something like the scarpa veloce is moderately downturned and very soft. If smearing affects you and ur panel is exhibiting it, u can also try lowering the refresh rate down a notch maybe if that's cool with u. Anything else, well, your mileage may vary. I use five ten pinks and mocs for anything under 5. My footwork can get a little awkward, standing only 5'1" high (all hail short legs), im developing this habit of smearing whenever my survival instinct just kicks in, be it on slabs or terrible tiny foothold (smedging). My reasoning is that the downsides of stiff shoes can be mostly mitigated, whereas with soft shoes, there are some things you simply cannot do. A shoe thats really good on slabs might be absolutely hopeless in a cave for example. 15ft+ is normally R. No using edges or "holds" that aren't bolted on for hands/feet is what i consider "no La Sportiva Futura - my favorite shoe for bouldering, harder gym climbs, and weird routes that look like they need lots of smearing and vague edges Tenaya Iati - most comfortable jack-of-all-trades shoe right out of the box. MembersOnline • ripmech ADMIN MOD Discover the difference between smearing and edging in climbing. I am still looking for the perfect climbing shoes for my feet and am wondering whether something from Unparallel might fit the bill. A decent number of hard climbers forego shoe sponsorships to wear La Sportivas. An expert climber will know how to use smearing climbing to reach to the top while utilizing the Climbing, as a sport, captivates enthusiasts with its blend of physical prowess, mental acuity, and sheer determination. Smearing in rock climbing involves using the friction between your shoe and the rock to climb without footholds. then the Theory is great - if precision and control is your preference, solution/solution comp. I have been bouldering for 10 months, and I started using the kilter board regularly. Stiff shoes make better all rounders than soft shoes. On steeper walls, this helps set up your toes to not just push This is a brief attempt to wrangle all of our "OMG what climbing shoe" posts in one general direction. Was thinking about the two brands today and kinda feel like scarpa is famous for their “soft smearing shoes” while la sportiva is famous for their “stiff edging shoes”. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. I used to be able So I am a beginner/intermediate climber and I am looking into getting my first pair of shoes. Reply reply togtogtog • It depends. about 2 months ago. Looking out for little bumps or dishes when you climb slab is key. I've been climbing for 2 years, mostly climbing 6a - 6b+ ish routes. Is monitor ghosting and smearing the same thing? If not, what's the difference? : r/Monitors r/Monitors Current search is within r/Monitors Remove r/Monitors filter and expand search to all of Reddit I've been using Unparallel Flagship for more than a year now and I love them. Here's a little background to start. If you're climbing on sandstone, immediately stop. 28 votes, 60 comments. It's not a skill because you don't work on smearing. Could I go smaller? Sure, maybe, but for the style of climbing I As an intermediate climber who primarily does indoor bouldering and prefers vert/slab, my Scarpa Velcoes are the perfect middle ground between comfy and aggressive. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending The Mastia also scores high marks for its sensitive heel and big toe-scumming patch, as well as for I was wondering what the best way to getting rid of the stench in my bouldering shoes is. What I’d like is some not steep smooth runout smearing. The weird mid top on the inside of the ankle seems unnecessary honestly. (Hopefully this is the right sub for this, I couldn't access the rules on mobile so if it breaks any I'll delete it). I do really like them for their good smearing capabilities and the soft and sticky rubber. The downturn helps with steeper climbing, helping you to pull your body closer to the wall with your toes, but smearing on vertical faces works best when you keep your heels lower than the foothold, which is harder to do with a stiff downturned shoe. Understanding the mechanics of smearing, when to use it, and the techniques for effective application can The four slab climbing secrets covered here are broken down with easy-to-follow cues to help you execute on the wall. As your are fairly new you might not have a preferred type of climbing yet. I've witnessed other climbers manicuring their shoes, using a super fine grit and sharp blade. a lot of indor bouldering), but any climb where you need to step on small edges you can tell they don't feel as secure. Very aggressive shoes are good for small feet My toes feel fine when on huge holds or when smearing. I’ve been climbing for about 1 1/2 - 2 years and have started to climb around the V6-7 range (in gym). Genuine question as I was disgusted by some guy smearing his bare feet on my holds. Once it starts absorbing water, it gets fragile. However, I don't think that my rental shoes are up to the job. Learn how these techniques enhance balance and stability on different surfaces. 5 (41) in almost all of my climbing shoes. I notice that most of the nearest crags ive been to are limestones (nightmare). Would like to hear the opinions from those who used both shoes. Like, I’d take a drago over a theory any day for smearing, and a solution over instinct VSRs for steep edges. Like slab. They called it “active smearing”. I am a beginner climber but also a curious guy, and doing a bit of research about best climbers (both male and female) I realised most of them are medium height and not so muscular people. As some of you know, I made a post about a piece of lore revealed in the Mexico show's question -- that there's more than one way to seize a vessel. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Shoes are probably one of the most important part of climbing, and cumulatively any climber should've spent the most money on them. Too tight. And some shoes are great for people with wide feet, but if you got narrow feet you won't really fit them. I'm afraid I'll destroy my shoes by putting putting them in natural vinegar or simply in the washing machine (in a washing bag, of course). You may feel differently though. This is unsanitary and totally gross! I tried telling them but they said it was more important to reuse it for The biggest difference is it’s really hard to replicate hard slab climbs inside, particularly when it comes to straight up smearing instead of edging. I always wondered if there is a corrilation between your body type and how it effects what type of climbs you prefer. For a route to be considered "R" at the Gunks it typically requires for the runout to be at the grade of the route. For me medium stiff shoes (instincts, mastia, phantoms) are amazing bit board climbing and overhangs outside while my softer shoes (iati, instinct vsr, solution comp) are great for smearing. 5-9 in most street shoes and a 8. I am relatively new to climbing. I have some others Muira, solutions and hi angle for bouldering or hard sport climbs. That being said, how "important" are they? Is it reasonable to be able send something because you swapped your old shoes out for something "stickier"? Or are you just too weak? And your footwork is bad or you don't trust your feet Otaki and Kataki will struggle with smearing based on my personal experience with them and Katana isn’t that aggressive though the Katana lace is more downturned than the velcro. Skwamas are also versatile shoes that I like a lot for bouldering. From scaling towering rock faces to conquering indoor Warning: potentially controversial opinion incoming. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Knowing the right climbing techniques is crucial for becoming better. 406K subscribers in the bouldering community. Ive got a 6'1" strong but slender guy friend who loves overhangs and anything he can handjam. Can anyone provide tips for accomplishing this route with rental shoes? Depends who you are talking to. I naturally do this and tbh I find it quite fun, but is it a bad thing and should I purposefully try not to cut loose? Would be best to check in with the employees, my gym is tapeless, walls are free game, smearing. I climb with heel down to gain more rubber-rock contact. So yeah, smear away. And yes we are scared of falling. Hi climber folks! This question is completely out of curiosity. A few of the good brands include Now after 5 years of climbing I mostly climb in the Miuras still or Mythos (not aggressive at all) depending on how hard I'm trying. Aggressive/downturned/cambered shoes have a curve to them that naturally puts your foot in a pulling position. I do a mixture of top rope, sport, and bouldering and I'm currently projecting my I would use them both for both types of climbing you mentioned, with preference going to whether I expect to be smearing and doing a lot of dynamic foot placements, hard toe hooks, need less precision, pocket foot holds etc. Learn how this technique improves footwork, balance, and stability, allowing climbers to Knowing the right climbing techniques is crucial for becoming better. smearing is not an 'incredibly essential skill. I believe that the beta requires you to smear a bat-hang while on a steep overhang. They’ve also held up pretty well without needing a resole too frequently. I have had my pair of Boreals for a bit over a year, and I have a large hole right on the tip, in front of my big toe. As far as technicalities go, the Solution provides You want to lean towards softer rubber for slab climbing smearing and indoor climbing/standing on volumes, but you want harder rubber for tiny edges. Most routes in my gym benefit a lot more with more neutral or moderate shoes and smearing seems to be a lot more important than edging or for routes even in (or where the toe is negligible in) the roof section of the gym. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. Anything else usually gets a brief mention in the guidebook (5. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 10 ish slab on various rock type maybe a grade lower on pure friction slab. Edging with the side has its place but using the foot perpendicular to the wall is very strong in the right circumstances. Another I'm looking at getting another pair of shoes, I primarily climb indoor bouldering but I'm hoping to start outdoor bouldering this year. I don't think that aggressive shoes are necessary, but having a pair of shoes with good sticky rubber (the rubber on Tarantulaces is awful) and a good fit makes a world of difference. Pushing off the wall with the flagging foot to help you move in the opposite direction. Discover why smearing is crucial in climbing. I've been climbing for about a year and am absolutely loving the sport and want to get better at it. I climb mostly indoor, but have done a fair amount of outdoor climbing as well. It's my go-to shoe when doing indoor bouldering. If you're climbing on Yosemite granite, then you're probably just fucked unless you're on a crack and you've got the most bomber jamming technique ever, as it becomes pretty much glass. With smearing, you're using your foot on something that isn't a hold in order to help propel you upwards by generating at least some of the force for upward movement with the foot you're smearing on the wall. Smearing was mentioned in two Clancy letters, and I think I finally figured out what it actually is. You'll have better luck smearing on little micro features than you will smearing somewhere randomly. Hello all! Ive been climbing in Evolv Kronos and while they are great, im wanting something more for top rope, for the small footholds and overhang/slight overhang. I have tried la Hi all, any good drills to practice keeping my feet on the wall? Particular small footholds when making bigger moves, my feet tend to cut and it wastes a ton of energy trying to get feet back on. Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. Indoor slabs often are so different in climbing style that people who don’t really engage with that style, probably won’t learn the fundamentals of it and thus never be good at it. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. . This post details what is smearing, how to smear, common mistakes to Imagine a portion of rock with apparently no footholds. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. But problems overlapping volumes allow the use of volumes to complete routes. 10-15ft is normally PG13. I did have this talk with someone in my local boulder hall sometime ago but I can't quite remember what he said to me. This led to some interesting conversations in the comments, and then I saw something in the Psychokinesis letter that almost made me After a month or two of outside climbing (~15 days a month) my smearing surface and edges get a little beat up. Obviously each brand does both depending on model, and both well. 12 in squam. 10b-c, while projecting 5. The main critiques of stiff shoes are that they don’t bend and conform to smearing on volumes as well, and they are less sensitive so it The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. I'm The holds for all the routes and problems in this gym are set in a glossed-over wood panelling, and it makes it rather difficult for me, someone who is 5'3, to climb because smearing is close to impossible. Also surprisingly durable If they didn't want people smearing they should've made the wall smooth like in many Asian climbing gyms. If you are doing a wide range of climbing with one pair of shoes, professionals tend to prefer soft rubber because the negatives can be compensated by getting strong feet. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. I’m an 8. The closest you’ll probably get is volumes without added holds on a vertical wall. 1. It takes a little practice One of the big things I personally noticed when transitioning from indoor to outdoor climbing was how much more smearing was required outdoors. e. Good textured stuff you'll probably be ok, Smedging is a valid technique, especially in shoes like your friend was using (stiff non-agressive trad shoes). Glossary Downturned - the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and Well for what it's worth, La Sportiva sponsors fewer climbers than other companies given their size. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to This is my first crack at a shoe review, I wanted to give an insightful perspective of my experience with this climbing shoe for new and experienced climbers alike. rertdp awwahz syow dyftqp sgrhd rrct mpkotgtv cohjbh swjdfc jmivi